Monday, April 26, 2010

Wachau Valley

When I started planning this trip back in January, I realized that so much of what we would be doing would be all new to me also.  I have never rode the Reisenrad or seen the Lipizzaner horses before this trip.  The one thing that I did want to do again with Mary--but in a new way was go into the Wachau valley.  The Wachau is a section of the Danube valley and it is not only very historic (this is where the Venus of Willendorf was found for you archaeology/anthropology buffs), but absolutely gorgeous!  Some of the most celebrated vineyards in Austria are in the Wachau as well as lots of castles--many are now ruins--and medieval monestaries.  My first visit to the Wachau was with a school tour and the last couple times with a rental car.  Well I am not in school and I hate driving in my own country so the rental car is out--even though it is one of the best ways.  I thought it would be lovely if Mary and I took a boat down the Danube river to Dürnstein.  Dürnstein is a tourist trap town, but I love it.  Many of the buildings date back to the 15th and 16th centuries.  The ruined castle above the town is said to have held King Richard the Lionheart ransome on his way home from the crusades.  After a steep hike to the ruins, the reward is a breathtaking view of the Wachau valley.  The only problem is that the boats from Vienna don't go all the way to Dürnstein until May.  I would have to take a train from Vienna to Krems and then catch the boat to Dürnstein.  Since that would require really good planning to match times and such, I decided to just go on an organized tour.  I am not really a fan of them, but I thought in this case it would be easier.

It was easier, but not really what I thought and I wouldn't do it that way again.  I would actually love to take the boat down and then ride a bike through the valley.  In the summertime there are thousands of people who do this.  The brochure did not give many details about the tour.  A van picked us up at nine at our hotel to take us to a tour bus.  We rode the bus for about an hour to Spitz.  On the bus we met a very nice couple, Sharon and Jerry, who live in San Luis Obispo, but are from the New Jersey/New York area.  I had such a nice time visiting with them throughout the day and Mary latched onto them.  I think she is having grandma/grandpa withdrawal.  Or maybe she is lonely.  She tries to talk to people and kids all the time, forgetting the language barrier.

I had thought that there would be a stop in Dürnstein, but it was just a drive-through.  I was pretty disappointed, but what could I do?  In Spitz we boarded a boat to take up the Danube to Melk.  It was gorgeous and very relaxing.  Unfortunately it was a little rainy.  When we arrived in Melk, it was sunny again and our bus was waiting for us to take us up to the Melk Abbey.  I was a little nervous about how Mary would behave on a tour of the abbey.  I even debated doing it at all since I did it once before, but thought; what the heck I paid for it and we can usually always exit.  We had lunch at a restaurant right outside the abbey.  I was trying to explain to Mary what an abbey is and how it is important to behave and be quiet. (I can't believe I haven't tried to get Mary to watch the Sound of Music yet)!  Melk Abbey is still an active Abbey with about forty monks currently living there.  I basically told her it was a place where Monks live and pray and devote their lives to God.  So Mary says, "oh like those chipmunks movie squeakquel movies that Jackson has?"  I seriously burst out laughing so loud!  Again I tried to explain it to her, but she just didn't get it.



Running laps around the fountain.


Still running...



We entered the courtyard to wait for the tour.  I told Mary she should run some laps around the fountain to get all her energy out--and she did it.  It was hilarious and everyone on the tour was laughing.  We went in the abbey and Mary was so so good.  She did keep asking me when we were "gonna see those monks?'  I think she was expecting to see some singing chipmunks or something.  We finished the tour and headed back to the bus.  Mary didn't even want to sit with me.  Sharon asked her if she would like to sit with her and she did--all the way back to Vienna.  I was kind of hoping Mary would sleep all the way, but she wanted to talk to Sharon and Jerry the whole time.  She is so funny.  I'm just glad that they didn't mind.  She finally fell asleep after we reached Vienna and were a couple blocks from the bus stop.  That just figures!  I didn't bring the stroller because I didn't need it for the tour; however I needed it now darn it.  I carried her for a while and finally she woke up because I kept having to move her around--she's heavy!

This is totally off subject, but as I was walking with Mary sleeping in my arms, I had to walk down underground to cross the street.  There aren't crosswalks because it is a busy intersection, so instead you just walk under the street.  It is also the way to the subway station.  As I am walking, I hear loud Mozart music and I look over and there is a neon sign that says, "Vienna Opera Toilet mit Musik."  Maybe I am easily amused, but I just thought it was so funny to advertise restrooms with music.  Crazy.

Once Mary and I woke up we just walked down Kärntnerstrasse and browsed in some stores.  I bought Mary a little outfit and then some chocolate and best of all--wine!  Wait that sounds like I bought Mary wine.  Oh no, the wine is for me!  Although since the airlines don't allow liquids really anymore it is more difficult to bring home lots of wine, which is too bad because there isn't a lot of Austrian wine in the US.  One time I bought some Austrian wine for around twenty Euros a bottle.  I was later at a restaurant in New York city and saw the same bottle of wine for 120 dollars!!!  So I only bought two bottles to bring home--I hope they make it okay in my suitcase.  I bought some wine sleeves before I left so they should be good.

After the shopping we got some käsekrainers (cheese hot dogs) and sat in Stephansplatz and ate.  There is great people watching there.  Mary found a penny and danced and tossed the penny and ate and so on.  The things that amuse a three year old!  We took pictures of each other in front of Stephansdom.  Unfortunately most of the pictures that Mary takes of me, cut off my head.  Then we got more ice cream and walked back to the hotel.  I feel really sad tonight because tomorrow is our last day here.  Mary and I both agreed that we could stay here forever!


1 comment:

Nicole Strayer said...

Even from reading this it seems like your trip was to short! Travel safe home and can't wait to talk to you! love you!!